No 7406 needed.Ī relay typically needs less than 500 mW, at 24 V that would be 20 mA, but this is an industrial relay, and will probably need more.
A logic gate FET will switch on with a 3.3 V gate voltage, so the PIC can drive it directly. You're using a PIC, which probably will have a supply voltage of minimum 3.3 V. What you need is a logic level gate MOSFET. Also the 100 Ω resistor doesn't "dampen oscillations". The circuit will also draw an unnecessary 5 mA with the relay on, and 10 mA no less with the relay off. The 7406 is superfluous, besides its maximum voltage is 30 V, not 40 V, and that 30 V is Absolute Maximum Ratings, not for continuous use. Besides it's a 20 V diode, so even if it would protect against the induction voltage the 24 V supply may already kill it. The diode doesn't offer any protection for the FET it may be destroyed together with the FET. The MOSFET in his schematic is a P-channel, not an N-channel. So simply elegant & versatile, this has become both one of my favorite electronic projects as well as devices.I'm sorry, but I think Matt's answer is not a good one at all. The only other electronic devices needed are limit/snap switches to stop the motor once it reaches the end of it's track when insulation panel assembly closes, and releases to power back on for next cycle when insulation panel assembly opens. Was going to use a 365 day programmable timer with 2 relay outputs but your design doesn't need programming, operates even on a leap year & is much cheaper. Since with your design, just one circuit would be operating at a time I can run red-black wires to one outlet & black-red to the other on same circuit. A lot of motors say interchange red & black wires to run in reverse. It's a reversible motor and pretty sure can wire it to run both ways without need for a DPDT relay in between. Simply amazing Arizno! Going to use this to directly power a 240 volt ac motor adapting/emulating your 120 volt plans) to run a gear-track assembly to open and close greenhouse insulation panels day and night automatically. Dotted lines represent a wire Brackets are the Outlets #7 Relay-White Wire (cord) #6 Relay-Hot/Black (cord) #5 Relay-Hot/Black (cord) -White Wire (cord) -#2 Relay -White Wire (cord) -#3 Relay Photo Sensor: Red Wire - attach to #8 on relay Black Wire- attach to Hot/black wire on supply cord White Wire- attach to White wire on supply cord Bulbs: Night Bulb- One wire goes to White wire on supply cord the other goes to #2 Relay Day Bulb- One wire goes to White wire on supply cord and the other to #3 Relay Here is a text diagram of what labels go on which wires. Labels: #2 Relay #2 Relay #3 Relay #3 Relay #5 Relay #6 Relay #7 Relay #8 Relay White Wire (cord) White Wire (cord) White Wire (cord) Hot/Black (cord) Hot/Black (cord) Prep wires by splicing at each end (approx. Also label each outlet (night or day) if you are using two outlets. I labeled them in layman's terms so they are easier to understand.
Below you will see the label list followed by a text diagram of where they go. Tips: Labeling makes for a much easier project build.
After-which I went ahead and started placing some of the wires where they belong. I started to create labels for all my wires to make it a breeze when it comes time to connect them. If you are interested in making one you can simply replace the project box with the plastic UL rated electrical boxes.
Project boxes are not UL rated for 120v electrical. Parts List: - Extension Cord - Cord Grip - 1 or 2 GFI Outlets - Wire - Relay Socket - SPDT 120v Relay - Photocell or Photoelectric Sensor - Wire Nuts - 120v Small Bulbs Tools: - Drill - Step Bits or Drill Bits - Wire Strippers - Painters Tape - Knife or Dremel - Outlet Cover (for template) - Marker - Screwdriver Disclaimer: This is just for experimental purposes. If day time control trips I won't loose my night time control. Personally I don't mind the double GFI protection. You can save money by getting a GFI electrical cord. The reason is simply because they were available. This kit allows is made up of readily available parts, you may even have them in a parts bin. I guess those are also readily available but at a ridiculous prices nearing $100+. What if your project needed you to turn on a item during the day and shut it off at night. If you look around, it is very easy to find a photoelectric sensor switches that shuts off lights during the day.
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